Troubleshooting guide › Material guides › Aluminium welding

Aluminium welding problems: porosity, cracking, black soot, burn-through, wire feeding

Aluminium welds badly for three reasons that have nothing to do with the welder: an oxide skin that melts at three times the temperature of the metal under it, a huge appetite for hydrogen that comes out as porosity, and heat conductivity that pulls the heat away from the weld. Every aluminium problem on this page traces back to one of the three. Get cleaning, gas and heat right and the process behaves.

Seen with: AC TIG with argon; MIG with push-pull or spool gun torches and argon; 1xxx, 3xxx, 5xxx and 6xxx alloys and castings.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

Why aluminium is different

PropertyWhat it means at the torch
Oxide skin melts at about 2050 degrees C; the metal at about 660 degrees CThe oxide must be removed before welding and broken up during it (AC cleaning on TIG, DC+ on MIG), or the pool stays trapped under a skin and will not fuse
Absorbs hydrogen when molten, rejects it when freezingAny moisture, oil, grease or hydrated oxide becomes porosity; cleanliness matters more than on any other metal
Conducts heat 4-5 times faster than steelNeeds high current and a fast start; the start of the weld is cold and the end is too hot, so preheat thick parts and use down-slope
Expands twice as much as steel and has no colour change before meltingDistortion is severe and the pool appears suddenly; tack closely and watch the surface shine instead of colour
Some alloys are crack-sensitive when welded6xxx (6061, 6063) and 2xxx/7xxx need the right filler; 5xxx and 1xxx are easy

Cleaning: the step that fixes half the problems

  1. Degrease first with a solvent or alkaline cleaner and a clean lint-free cloth; never use a cloth that has touched steel or oil.
  2. Remove the oxide mechanically just before welding: a stainless wire brush kept only for aluminium, or a clean carbide burr. Brush in one direction, lightly; hard scrubbing rubs oxide in.
  3. Do not use grinding discs that were used on steel, and avoid aluminium-oxide abrasives that embed grit.
  4. Weld within a few hours of cleaning; the oxide grows back and picks up moisture.
  5. Clean the filler rod or wire with a solvent wipe; store wire in a sealed bag, spool covered, discard dull or grey spools.
  6. Keep the joint fit-up tight; gaps trap contamination and need more filler, which means more hydrogen.

Porosity in aluminium

1Hydrogen from contamination

Oil, grease, marker ink, cutting fluid, moisture in the hydrated oxide, dirty filler.

Fix: The cleaning sequence above. If porosity persists with a clean joint, change the filler spool or rod batch.

2Gas cover disturbed

Argon flow too low, draught, leaking torch, wrong cup; on MIG a long stick-out.

Fix: TIG 8-12 L/min with a gas lens; MIG 15-20 L/min pure argon; screen from draughts; check the torch O-rings and the cooling water for leaks into the gas line.

3Welding too fast or too cold

The pool freezes before the gas can escape.

Fix: Raise current or slow down a little; preheat thick sections to about 80-110 degrees C, never above 120 degrees C on heat-treated alloys.

4Wire or liner contaminated (MIG)

Aluminium shavings in the liner, an old steel liner, drive rolls scraping the wire.

Fix: Fit a new PTFE or nylon liner, U-groove rolls at light pressure, clean the inlet guide; the wire should come out bright.

5Moisture in the gas line

A cylinder that has been used for other gases, or hoses left open.

Fix: Use welding-grade argon, purge the line 30 s after changing cylinders.

Hot cracking and crater cracking

1Wrong filler for the alloy

6xxx alloys crack when welded with their own composition or with the wrong filler; the weld metal has a wide freezing range.

Fix: Use 4043 (Al-Si) on 6061/6063 for crack resistance where the strength and colour allow; 5356 (Al-Mg) gives higher strength and better colour match after anodising but is more crack-prone in restrained 6xxx joints. For 5xxx base use 5356 or 5183. For castings use 4043 or 4047. 2xxx and 7xxx are often unweldable by arc; ask before quoting.

2Crater left at the end

The last pool shrinks and tears across; aluminium does this more than any other metal.

Fix: Crater fill (down-slope 3-8 s on TIG, 1-2 s on MIG), or back-step 10-15 mm, or run off onto a tab. Never just release the trigger.

3Too much restraint

Rigid fixtures and tight sequences stop the weld from shrinking freely.

Fix: Allow shrinkage, weld from the fixed end to the free end, loosen clamps after tacking.

4Bead too narrow and deep

A deep narrow bead freezes from the sides and tears down the middle.

Fix: Slightly wider bead, more filler, lower travel speed.

5Dilution with the wrong base

A 5356 weld diluted heavily into a 6xxx base lands in the crack-sensitive range.

Fix: Add more filler so the weld is mostly filler composition; use 4043 where dilution is high.

Black soot, grey or dull welds

  • Black soot beside a MIG bead: normal in small amounts with 5356 wire (magnesium oxide); heavy soot means the torch is dragged instead of pushed, the stick-out is long, or the gas flow is low. Push the torch at 10-15 degrees, stick-out 12-15 mm, argon 15-20 L/min.
  • Grey, dull TIG bead with a dirty pool: not enough cleaning action. Raise AC balance towards more cleaning (EP) a few percent; check the joint was brushed; raise post-flow.
  • Pepper-like black specks in the pool: contamination from the filler or the brush. Change the filler, clean the brush.
  • Weld bright but the edges dull: the cleaning zone is narrow; a little more EP balance or a slightly wider cup.
  • Oxidised, flaky bead: post-flow too short or flow too low.

AC TIG settings for aluminium

ControlSetEffect
AC balance (cleaning width)30-40 % EP for clean plate; 40-50 % for oxidised or cast material; machines that show the scale as 20-80 % start near the middleMore EP: more cleaning, wider zone, tungsten runs hotter and balls. Less EP: more penetration, tungsten stays cooler
AC frequency60-80 Hz for general work; 100-150 Hz for thin sheet and filletsHigher: narrower, stiffer arc that is easier to steer; lower: wider, softer arc
CurrentAbout 40-50 A per mm of thickness; 3 mm about 120-150 A; 6 mm about 220-280 AToo low: oxide floats, pool will not wet; too high: burn-through and tungsten balling
Tungsten2 % lanthanated, blunt point, a small ball forms; 2.4 mm up to about 180 A, 3.2 mm to 250 A, 4 mm abovePure or zirconiated on transformer machines
GasArgon 8-12 L/min, gas lens, cup size 7-8; argon-helium mix for plate over 8 mmHelium adds heat and width
Pre-flow / post-flow0.5-1 s / 8-15 sTungsten should stay silver
Start / slopeHF start; up-slope 1-2 s; down-slope 3-8 s to kill the craterPedal control is ideal for aluminium
PulseOff to learn; 1-2 Hz with 40-50 % base for thin sheet and out-of-positionReduces heat and gives a regular ripple to time the filler
Thickness (butt, flat)TungstenFillerCurrentArgon
1.0 mm1.0-1.6 mm1.6 mm40-60 A4-7 L/min
1.5 mm1.6 mm1.6 mm60-90 A6-9 L/min
3.0 mm1.6-2.4 mm1.6-2.4 mm100-160 A7-10 L/min
4.0 mm2.4 mm2.4 mm130-200 A10-15 L/min
6.0 mm3.2-4.0 mm2.4-3.2 mm200-280 A10-15 L/min
8.0 mm3.2-4.0 mm3.2-4.0 mm200-300 A12-18 L/min

Guide values for AC TIG in the flat position. Preheat 80-110 degrees C for 6 mm and above helps the start.

MIG on aluminium: feeding and arc

1Wire birdnests or feeds in surges

Soft wire buckles in a long cable, a steel liner, V-groove rolls that deform it, or too much roll pressure.

Fix: Push-pull torch or spool gun for cables over 3 m; PTFE or nylon liner; U-groove rolls at the lightest pressure that feeds; plastic inlet guide; contact tip one size up (1.2 mm wire in a 1.4 mm tip) because the wire expands.

2Burnback into the tip

Wire feed stalls for a moment, or voltage is high for the wire speed.

Fix: Fix the feed; lower voltage; use the larger tip.

3Lack of fusion at the start, burn-through at the end

Cold plate at the start, heat building up along the seam.

Fix: Hot start or preheat; reduce current or speed up as the part heats; pulse MIG keeps the heat lower.

4Arc sputtering, dirty bead

Wrong polarity (MIG on aluminium is DC+), CO2 or mixed gas by mistake, long stick-out.

Fix: Torch to positive; pure argon 15-20 L/min; stick-out 12-15 mm; push angle.

5Pool too fluid, runs away in position

Too much heat for the thickness; spray transfer on thin sheet.

Fix: Pulse mode; 0.9-1.0 mm wire on thin sheet; weld vertical-up with a slight weave.
Thickness (fillet, flat)WireCurrentVoltageArgon
2 mm0.9-1.0 mm70-100 A (pulse)17-19 V15 L/min
3 mm1.0-1.2 mm110-140 A19-21 V15-18 L/min
5 mm1.2 mm160-200 A22-24 V18 L/min
8 mm1.2-1.6 mm220-280 A24-27 V18-20 L/min
12 mm1.6 mm300-360 A27-30 V20 L/min, preheat

Spray transfer begins at about 130 A with 1.2 mm wire on argon. Starting points only.

Burn-through, distortion and other heat problems

  • Burn-through on thin sheet: use pulse, a copper or stainless backing bar, tack every 25-40 mm, and move fast; the pool collapses without warning because there is no colour change.
  • Distortion: twice the expansion of steel. Clamp on a flat bed with chill bars, weld in short alternating lengths, allow for shrinkage of about 1-2 mm per metre of seam.
  • Weld fine for 300 mm then burns through: heat is building up; reduce current along the seam, or let the part cool between sections.
  • Loss of strength next to the weld on 6061-T6: unavoidable in the heat-affected zone (about 40-50 % loss); keep heat input low, do not over-weld, and design for it.
  • Weld will not start on thick plate: preheat 80-110 degrees C; never above about 120 degrees C on heat-treated alloys or for more than a few minutes on 5xxx.

Prevention checklist

  • Dedicated aluminium brushes and abrasives, marked and kept separate from steel.
  • Degrease, then brush, then weld within hours.
  • Pure argon; flow checked at the cup; gas lens on TIG.
  • Crater fill or back-step on every stop.
  • Filler chosen for the alloy, not what is on the shelf.
  • MIG: PTFE liner, U-groove rolls, push-pull or spool gun, DC+.
  • Tack closely; chill bars on thin sheet; preheat thick sections lightly.

Questions we get asked

Can I weld aluminium with my DC TIG?

Only with helium shielding on DC-, which is a specialist technique. For normal workshop aluminium you need AC. An AC/DC machine covers aluminium and everything else.

The weld looks fine but the part cracked a week later

Usually a crater crack or a toe crack that was too fine to see, grown under vibration. Dye-penetrant test the ends of aluminium welds on anything that carries load.

Which filler, 4043 or 5356?

4043 for 6xxx alloys and castings where crack resistance matters and the weld will not be anodised. 5356 for 5xxx alloys, for higher strength, and where the colour must match after anodising. Never 5356 on parts that will run above about 65 degrees C in service for long periods.

Why does my aluminium MIG wire feed on Monday and not on Thursday?

The spool has picked up moisture and the oxide has thickened, so it drags in the liner. Keep spools in sealed bags with desiccant and cover the feeder overnight.

Fix it yourself: your Cruxweld machine

Lamps, fault codes and the checks an operator can do outside the cabinet, for the machines this page applies to.

Does the machine matter?

TIG on aluminium needs AC with adjustable balance (cleaning) and frequency, and enough current: about 40-50 A per mm of thickness, so 6 mm plate needs a 250-300 A AC/DC machine with a water-cooled torch. MIG needs a feeder that handles soft wire: U-groove rolls, a PTFE liner, and a push-pull torch or spool gun for anything beyond a 3 m cable. Pulse MIG makes thin aluminium much easier.

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

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