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Stainless steel welding problems: heat tint, sugaring, rust after welding, cracking, distortion

Stainless steel is easy to weld and easy to ruin. The arc behaves well; the problems come afterwards: a weld that rusts, a root that looks like sugar, a heat-affected zone that corrodes in service, or a sheet that has buckled. Almost all of it comes from heat, oxygen and iron contamination, and all three can be controlled with cheap discipline. This page covers austenitic grades (304, 316, 321) in detail, with notes on ferritic and duplex.

Seen with: TIG with argon (and back purge); MIG with Ar-2 % CO2 or Ar-O2; stick with E308L / E316L / E309L; spot welding of stainless sheet.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

Why stainless is different

PropertyWhat it means at the torch
Conducts heat at a third the rate of mild steelHeat stays in the joint: the pool forms fast, the HAZ stays hot longer, distortion is worse, and current is about 10-20 % lower than for mild steel
Expands about 50 % more than mild steelThin sheet buckles; tack closely, use chill bars, balance the sequence
Protected by a chromium oxide film that needs oxygen to re-formHeat tint and scale on the surface and inside the pipe must be removed or the steel rusts there
Chromium carbides form at 500-800 degrees CSlow cooling or many hot passes sensitise the HAZ and it corrodes along the grain boundaries (weld decay); use L grades and keep heat input and interpass low
Fully austenitic weld metal is crack-sensitiveFillers 308L/316L are designed to freeze with a little ferrite (5-10 %) to resist hot cracking
Iron particles embedded in the surface rustDedicated tools: stainless brushes, inox discs, no carbon-steel contact

Heat tint, black welds and sugaring

1Post-flow too short, gas flow too low (TIG)

The weld and tungsten are still hot when the argon stops; the surface oxidises to straw, blue, then black.

Fix: Post-flow 1 s per 10 A, minimum 8 s; argon 8-12 L/min with a gas lens and a large cup; trailing shield for long seams on sheet.

2Heat input too high

The wider the hot zone, the wider the tint.

Fix: Lower current, faster travel, stringer beads, pulse on thin sheet; interpass below 150 degrees C.

3No back purge (sugaring on the root)

The root of a single-sided weld on pipe or sheet is exposed to air and oxidises into a grey, granular, crumbly surface: sugaring. It is weak and it corrodes.

Fix: Purge the back with argon: tape the ends of the pipe, fill with argon at 5-10 L/min until the oxygen is below about 0.1 % (a purge monitor, or at least 6-8 volume changes), keep purging during welding and until the root is below about 250 degrees C. On open sheet use a copper backing bar with argon channels, or a backing flux paste.

4Draught or leaking torch

Argon is blown away or diluted.

Fix: Screen the job; check the torch and hose for leaks; replace a cracked gas lens.

5Acceptance

A straw or light gold tint is usually acceptable on general work; blue, purple and black tints have lost chromium and must be removed for corrosion service.

Fix: Pickle, or mechanically clean with a dedicated abrasive, then passivate.
Tint colourApproximate peak temperatureWhat to do for corrosion service
None / silverbelow 300 degrees CNothing
Straw / gold300-400 degrees CUsually accepted on general fabrication; clean for food and chemical
Brown / purple400-500 degrees CRemove by pickling or brushing
Blue500-600 degrees CRemove; the surface has lost chromium
Grey / black / sugaredabove 600 degrees C in airGrind out and reweld on pipe roots; remove completely elsewhere

Rust on a stainless weld

1Iron contamination

A steel wire brush, a grinding disc used on mild steel, steel clamps, a steel bench, a chain, or grinding dust from the next bay embeds iron that rusts within days.

Fix: Dedicated stainless brushes and inox discs, stainless or plastic-faced clamps, a separate area or a cover for stainless work, and no walking on stainless sheet. Test suspect areas with a ferroxyl test or by wetting them for 24 hours.

2Heat tint not removed

The tinted zone has lost chromium and rusts first.

Fix: Pickle (nitric-hydrofluoric paste), then rinse thoroughly and passivate; or brush and polish with dedicated abrasives.

3Weld spatter and arc strikes

Each one breaks the passive film and starts a pit.

Fix: Anti-spatter spray, remove spatter, grind arc strikes and polish.

4Carbon steel filler or wrong electrode

Mild steel wire used by mistake on stainless; the weld itself is carbon steel.

Fix: Check the spool and electrode markings; 308L for 304, 316L for 316, 309L for stainless to mild steel.

5Chlorides

Marker pens, tapes, cleaning chemicals and seawater containing chloride cause pitting and stress corrosion.

Fix: Chloride-free markers and cleaners; rinse with clean water.

Weld decay (sensitisation), hot cracking and other metallurgical faults

1Weld decay / intergranular corrosion

A band next to the weld corrodes in service. Chromium carbides formed while the HAZ sat at 500-800 degrees C, leaving the grain boundaries short of chromium.

Fix: Use L grades (304L, 316L) or stabilised grades (321, 347) and L fillers; keep heat input low and interpass below 150 degrees C; avoid slow multi-pass welding of thick 304 with standard carbon; do not post-weld heat treat austenitic stainless unless the design requires it.

2Hot cracking (solidification cracking)

Fully austenitic weld metal, high dilution, deep narrow beads, crater cracks, contamination with copper, zinc or sulphur.

Fix: Fillers that give 5-10 % ferrite (308L, 316L, 309L for dissimilar); wider flatter bead; crater fill; clean the joint; avoid copper tools in the arc.

3Cracks when welding stainless to mild steel

Dilution of a 308L weld with mild steel gives a crack-sensitive, low-ferrite deposit.

Fix: Use 309L filler for the joint, and a wide bead with more filler.

4Loss of toughness or corrosion in duplex

Too fast cooling gives too much ferrite; too slow precipitates brittle phases.

Fix: Controlled heat input, interpass under 150 degrees C (some grades 100), duplex filler overalloyed in nickel; ask for the procedure.

5Hydrogen cracks in martensitic or ferritic grades

These harden on cooling, unlike austenitic.

Fix: Preheat 200-300 degrees C for martensitic (410, 420), 50-250 degrees C for ferritic with matching filler, or use austenitic filler on thin ferritic; post-weld temper martensitic at about 650-750 degrees C.

Distortion on stainless

  • Tack every 30-50 mm on sheet, 75-100 mm on plate; tack from the middle outwards.
  • Copper backing bars and chill bars pull heat out and halve the buckling on thin sheet.
  • Lowest current that fuses; pulse TIG or pulse MIG on sheet below 2 mm.
  • Short runs in a balanced sequence; weld both sides of a seam alternately.
  • Interpass under 150 degrees C: measure with a temperature stick or an infrared thermometer; wait, do not rush.
  • Allow for about 1.5 times the shrinkage you expect on mild steel.
  • Fixtures that allow the seam to shrink lengthwise but hold it flat.

Filler, gas and settings

Base metalTIG / MIG fillerStick electrodeNote
304 / 304LER308LE308LThe standard
316 / 316LER316LE316LMarine, chemical, food
321 / 347ER347E347High temperature
Stainless to mild steelER309LE309LTolerates dilution
409 / 430 ferriticER309L or ER430E309LKeep heat low; grain growth
Duplex 2205ER2209E2209Controlled heat input
ProcessGasFlowNote
TIGArgon 99.99 %; Ar-2 % H2 for austenitic only8-12 L/min, gas lensBack purge argon 5-10 L/min
MIGAr-2 % CO2 or Ar-1 % O2 (never more than 2-3 % CO2)15-18 L/minPure CO2 carburises the weld and darkens it
Flux-cored stainlessAr-20 % CO2 or CO2 as the wire specifies18-20 L/minSlag must be removed fully
Spot welding––One tap lower and shorter time than mild steel
ThicknessTIG current (DC-)FillerMIG (1.0 mm wire)
1 mm30-45 A, pulse1.0-1.6 mm50-80 A, 15-17 V, pulse
2 mm60-80 A1.6 mm90-120 A, 18-20 V
3 mm80-120 A1.6-2.4 mm130-160 A, 20-22 V
5 mm130-180 A2.4 mm170-210 A, 23-25 V (1.2 mm wire)
8 mm180-240 A, water-cooled torch3.2 mm220-270 A, 25-28 V (1.2 mm wire)

About 10-20 % below the mild-steel values. Starting points only; confirm on a test piece and check the back of the weld.

Post-weld cleaning

  1. Remove spatter and slag with stainless tools.
  2. Brush the weld and the tinted zone with a dedicated stainless brush, or polish with an inox flap disc.
  3. For corrosion service, pickle with a nitric-hydrofluoric paste for the time the paste maker specifies, then rinse completely with clean water; or use electrolytic weld cleaning.
  4. Passivate (nitric or citric acid treatment) to rebuild the chromium oxide film quickly; the film also reforms in air over a day or two if the surface is clean.
  5. Check: wet the area and leave it 24 hours; any rust stain means iron is still embedded.
Safety: Pickling pastes contain hydrofluoric acid. Gloves, face shield, ventilation, and neutralise and dispose of the rinse water as the paste maker instructs.

Prevention checklist

  • Dedicated stainless brushes, discs, clamps and bench; marked and separate from mild steel.
  • L-grade base and filler; check the spool before every job.
  • Argon post-flow long; back purge on every single-sided root.
  • Interpass under 150 degrees C, measured.
  • Lowest fusing current; stringer beads; pulse on sheet.
  • Tack closely; chill bars on sheet.
  • Remove heat tint; pickle or polish and passivate for corrosion service.
  • Chloride-free markers and cleaners.

Questions we get asked

My stainless weld is rusting. Is the material fake?

Possibly, but far more often it is iron contamination from steel brushes, discs or benches, or heat tint that was not removed. Clean a small area with a dedicated abrasive, passivate, and wet it for a day; if it stays clean the material is fine.

Do I need to back purge every pipe weld?

For anything that carries product (food, chemical, pharma, water) or that is inspected, yes. For structural handrail and furniture, a backing flux paste or a copper bar is often enough, but a sugared root is still weak.

Can I weld stainless with CO2 like mild steel?

Not for corrosion service: pure CO2 adds carbon to the weld and darkens it. Use Ar-2 % CO2. Flux-cored stainless wires designed for CO2 are the exception.

Why does 304 welded with a lot of heat corrode next to the weld?

That is weld decay: the heat-affected zone sat at 500-800 degrees C long enough to form chromium carbides. 304L or 321 with low heat input avoids it.

Does the machine matter?

Stainless needs lower heat input and good gas control. A DC TIG with pulse, down-slope and long post-flow is the standard tool for sheet and pipe; a MIG with pulse makes thin stainless sheet practical at speed. Spot welders need a lower tap and shorter time than for mild steel. None of them replace a clean shop: stainless welded with steel-contaminated tools rusts no matter what machine made the weld.

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