Troubleshooting guide › Weld defects › Arc strikes and crater cracks

Arc strikes and crater cracks: the defects at the start and end of every weld

The two ends of a weld cause more rejections than the middle. An arc strike outside the joint leaves a tiny hardened, often cracked, spot on the plate. A crater left at the end of the weld shrinks as it freezes and cracks in a star pattern. Both are small, both are easy to miss, and both are where fatigue cracks start.

Seen with: All arc processes. Worst on high-strength and quenched steels, stainless, aluminium, and on fatigue-loaded structures.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

What it looks like

Arc strike: a small pitted mark or a splash of metal on the plate away from the weld, sometimes with a hairline crack through it. Crater crack: a star- or line-shaped crack in the hollow at the end of the bead, or at every stop in a multi-run weld. On aluminium and stainless the crater is a visible dimple that cracks across.

crater crack at the stoparc strikeILLUSTRATION · weld cross-section

Illustration, not a photo. Orange marks the defect.

Causes, most likely first, and the fix for each

1Arc struck on the plate outside the joint

Scratch-starting a stick electrode on the plate, or touching the MIG wire or TIG tungsten to the plate away from the joint. The spot heats and quenches in a fraction of a second, leaving hard martensite that cracks.

Fix: Strike inside the joint, or on a run-on tab, and move into the weld. Use hot start on inverters so a touch start is enough. On high-strength steel grind out every arc strike and check it with dye penetrant.

2Weld stopped abruptly

The arc is cut while the pool is still large; the centre of the pool is the last to freeze and shrinkage tears it.

Fix: Back-step: reverse direction for 10-15 mm at the end to fill the crater. Or use crater fill: current ramps down over 0.5-2 s while the pool fills.

3Lifting the torch away at the end

Pulling the MIG torch or TIG tungsten upwards lengthens the arc and widens the crater before it freezes.

Fix: Hold the torch in place at the end, pause, then release the trigger. Keep gas post-flow on the crater.

4Stops in a multi-run weld not cleaned or re-melted

Every stop is a crater; the next start does not always re-melt it.

Fix: Grind each stop to a taper before restarting; start 10 mm back on the previous bead.

5Crack-sensitive material

Aluminium and fully austenitic stainless weld metal crack easily at the crater; quenched steel cracks at arc strikes.

Fix: Crater fill and run-off tabs are mandatory on these. See the aluminium and stainless guides.

6Earth clamp sparking

A loose or dirty earth clamp arcs against the plate and leaves arc strikes where no one is looking.

Fix: Clamp on clean bright metal, tighten, and check the clamp face is not burnt.

Crater-fill and start settings

Typical values on an inverter MIG or TIG with 4T trigger. A starting point only.

MIG crater fillDown-slope 0.5-1.5 s; crater current 50-70 % of welding current
MIG hot startStart current 110-130 % for 0.3-0.5 s on cold plate
TIG down-slope2-5 s on steel, 3-8 s on aluminium; end current 10-20 % of weld current
TIG post-flow1 s per 10 A of welding current, minimum 5 s
StickStrike inside the joint; back-step 10-15 mm at the end
Run-on / run-off tabs50 x 50 mm pieces of the same plate tacked at each end of a butt weld, cut off afterwards

On a foot-pedal TIG, ease off the pedal while adding a last drop of filler to the crater.

How to check for it

  • Look at every stop and every start with a torch and a magnifier; crater cracks are small.
  • Dye penetrant on the ends of welds on stainless and aluminium.
  • Magnetic particle testing on steel structures finds arc strikes that have cracked.
  • On high-strength steel treat every arc strike as a defect: grind it out and penetrant-test the ground area.

Prevention checklist

  • Strike inside the joint or on a tab, never on the open plate.
  • Use crater fill or back-step at every stop.
  • Hold the torch still at the end; let post-flow cover the crater.
  • Taper-grind every stop before restarting.
  • Earth clamp on clean metal, tight.
  • Run-on and run-off tabs on butt welds that will be inspected.

Questions we get asked

An arc strike is tiny. Why does it matter?

The metal under it was heated to melting and quenched by the cold plate in less than a second. On medium-carbon or high-strength steel that makes a hard, brittle spot with a crack-like edge. Under fatigue load the crack grows from there.

Can I just weld over the crater?

If you restart on the crater and re-melt it fully, yes. If the crack is deep it may survive underneath. Grinding the crater to a taper first is the safe way.

What is 4T mode?

Press the trigger to start (with hot start), release and the weld continues, press again to go into crater fill, release to stop. It gives a proper start and finish without holding the trigger for the whole weld.

Does the machine matter?

A machine with crater fill (down-slope at the end of the weld) and a 4T trigger mode prevents most crater cracks on MIG and TIG, provided the filler, the settings and the finish technique are right; it is a help, not a guarantee. For stick, a hot start that does not need the electrode scratched across the plate reduces stray arc strikes. These are standard on inverter machines and worth insisting on if you weld anything that will be inspected.

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

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