Troubleshooting guide › Weld defects › Bad bead shape

Bad bead shape: too high, too flat, too narrow, uneven or ropey

The shape of the bead is the welding machine talking to you. Too high and narrow means cold; too wide and flat means hot or slow; ropey means the voltage is wrong; uneven means the hand or the feed is uneven. Reading the bead correctly is the fastest way to set a machine, and most of the other defects on this guide announce themselves through bead shape first.

Seen with: All processes. Fastest to read on MIG and submerged arc because the settings are repeatable.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

What it looks like

Convex: the bead stands up like a rope with sharp toes. Concave: the fillet face is hollow and the throat is thin. Excess reinforcement: a butt weld cap more than 2-3 mm above the plate. Uneven: width and height vary along the length, or the ripples are irregular. Narrow and high: a stringer that does not wet the plate.

too high and narrowdashed = targetILLUSTRATION · weld cross-section

Illustration, not a photo. Orange marks the defect.

Read the bead: shape, cause, correction

What you seeWhat it meansChange
High, narrow, ropey bead with sharp toesVoltage too low for the wire speed (MIG), current too low (stick), or travel too fastRaise voltage one step; or raise current; or slow down
Wide, flat bead, maybe undercut at the edgesVoltage too high, or travel too slow with high currentLower voltage; speed up
Concave fillet (hollow face)Voltage too high, travel too fast, or welding vertical-downLower voltage; slow down; weld vertical-up
Excess reinforcement on a butt weld (cap above 3 mm)Too much filler: travel too slow or too many passesFaster final pass; plan the passes so the cap is 1-2 mm
Bead wider on one sideTorch angle biased, or arc blowCentre the torch; move the earth clamp
Width changes along the lengthHand speed uneven; wire feed slipping; mains voltage swingingRest the torch hand; check feed rolls and liner; look at the voltmeter while welding
Coarse, irregular ripplesArc length changing: stick-out varying, long arc on stickKeep stick-out and arc length constant; brace the hand
Bead with a dull, grey, oxidised surfaceGas cover poor; on stainless and aluminium, too little post-flowCheck gas flow and nozzle; add post-flow
Bead sunk with a hole in the middleBurn-through: too hot or too slowSee the burn-through page
Lumpy start, thin finishToo much current at the start on cold plate, crater at the endUse hot start or run-on tab; fill the crater

The three settings and what each does

On every arc process three things set the bead: how much metal goes in (current or wire speed), how wide the arc is (voltage or arc length), and how fast you move (travel speed). Change one at a time.

SettingRaise it and the bead getsLower it and the bead gets
Current / wire speedDeeper penetration, bigger, more convexShallower, smaller, colder, may not fuse
Voltage / arc lengthWider, flatter, less penetration, more spatter if too highNarrower, higher, ropey, more short-circuit spatter
Travel speedNarrower, less penetration, undercut if too fastWider, more penetration, overlap and burn-through if too slow

A quick rule for MIG: set wire speed for the plate thickness, then tune voltage until the arc sounds like steady frying and the bead toe wets the plate. Then set travel so the bead is 2-2.5 times the wire diameter wide on a stringer.

Target bead profile

Fillet weldFlat to slightly convex face, equal legs, toe angle wide and smooth
Butt weld capReinforcement 1-2 mm, maximum 3 mm, blending into the plate
Root bead (single side)Continuous, slightly raised, 1-2 mm, no suck-back
Stringer bead widthAbout 2-2.5 times the wire or core diameter
RipplesFine, even, overlapping like fish scales

These are visual targets for general fabrication. Codes give measured limits for reinforcement and toe angle.

Prevention checklist

  • Change one setting at a time and weld a 100 mm test bead after each change.
  • Keep a settings card at each machine: wire, gas, plate, current, voltage, speed.
  • Clean the liner and check feed roll tension weekly; a slipping feed gives an uneven bead.
  • Watch the voltmeter during the weld; a swing of 2 V or more means a supply problem.
  • Brace the torch hand; a steady speed matters more than a fast one.
  • Grind the cap of a butt weld only if the drawing asks for it; do not weld it high “to be safe”.

Questions we get asked

Is a convex bead stronger?

No. A convex fillet has the same throat as a flat one with the same leg, but sharper toes that concentrate stress. Extra height is wasted wire.

My bead looks fine on the test plate but bad on the job. Why?

The job is colder, dirtier, or in a different position. Scale, paint, a draught, a longer cable run or a 20-degree change of torch angle all change the bead. Test on the job material in the job position.

How wide should a weave be?

No more than about 2.5 times the electrode core diameter on stick, or 10-12 mm on MIG. Wider weaves cool at the edges and give overlap, undercut and slag inclusion.

Does the machine matter?

A machine with readable, repeatable settings is what makes bead shape useful as a tool. Synergic MIG machines that set voltage from wire speed produce a good bead at any point on the scale; a transformer machine with a coarse tap switch sometimes cannot hit the right voltage at all for a given wire speed, and the bead stays slightly wrong.

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

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