Troubleshooting guide › Process troubleshooting › MIG / MAG welding problems

MIG / MAG welding problems: wire feed, arc, gas and torch faults solved

Nine out of ten MIG problems are in the wire path or the gas path, not in the power source. This page works through them in the order a technician would check them: the feed, the torch, the gas, the earth, then the settings, and finally the machine protections. Each symptom has its likely causes first.

Seen with: MIG / MAG with solid wire on CO2 or Ar-CO2; flux-cored wire; inverter and transformer machines with separate or built-in wire feeders.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

Before you start: Switch off and isolate the machine before touching any cable, feeder or torch connection. Anything inside the cabinet is for our technical team, not the operator.

Wire not feeding, or feeding unevenly

The wire should come out of the torch at a steady rate with the trigger pressed and the drive rolls turning. If it stutters, slips, or stops, work down this list.

1Feed roll pressure wrong

Too little pressure and the roll slips; too much flattens the wire so it jams in the liner.

Fix: Set pressure so the wire just cannot be stopped by pinching it with gloved fingers at the tip. For flux-cored and aluminium wire, use the lightest pressure that feeds.

2Liner clogged, kinked or wrong size

Copper dust and drawing lubricant build up inside the liner; a kinked torch cable binds the wire.

Fix: Blow the liner through with dry compressed air from the torch end every week. Replace the liner every 3-6 months of daily use, or at once if the cable has been crushed. Use the liner size for the wire (0.8-1.0, 1.2-1.6).

3Contact tip worn or wrong size

An oval, enlarged tip bore gives poor contact, so the arc wanders and the wire can weld itself to the tip.

Fix: Replace the tip at the start of every shift on production work. Use the tip size for the wire; a 1.2 mm wire in a 1.6 mm tip gives an erratic arc.

4Drive rolls worn or wrong groove

A V-groove for solid wire; a knurled V for flux-cored; a U-groove for aluminium. A worn groove slips.

Fix: Fit the groove for the wire and check the roll is seated on the shaft with the correct groove in line with the inlet guide.

5Spool brake too tight or spool overrunning

Too tight and the motor stalls at the start; too loose and the spool overruns and tangles.

Fix: Set the brake so the spool stops within half a turn when the trigger is released.

6Inlet guide misaligned

Wire scrapes the guide tube, picks up shavings and jams.

Fix: Line up the inlet guide with the drive rolls so the wire runs straight through; replace a worn guide.

7Wire rusty, dirty or damp

Rust and dust act like sandpaper in the liner.

Fix: Keep spools covered overnight, store in a dry place, discard rusty wire.

8Motor or control fault

Feed motor does not run at all, or runs at one speed regardless of the setting.

Fix: Check the control cable plug between feeder and machine is fully home and the pins are clean. If the motor still does not respond, our technical team checks the control board.

Birdnesting (wire tangles at the drive rolls)

The drive rolls keep pushing but the wire cannot get through the torch, so it bunches into a nest behind the rolls. The blockage is always downstream of the rolls.

  • Burnback welded the wire to the contact tip: replace the tip, see burnback below.
  • Liner blocked or kinked: blow it out or replace it.
  • Feed roll pressure far too high, deforming the wire.
  • Wire too soft for a long cable (aluminium): use a push-pull torch or spool gun.
  • Torch cable coiled tightly during welding: keep it as straight as the job allows.

To clear it: release the pressure arm, cut the wire at the spool side and the torch side, pull the nest out, snip a clean end on the wire, and re-feed. Never pull the wire back through the liner.

Burnback (wire welds itself to the contact tip)

1Burnback time set too long

The arc stays on after the feed stops and burns the wire back into the tip.

Fix: Reduce burnback time in small steps until the wire stops 8-12 mm from the tip at the end of the weld.

2Voltage too high for the wire speed

The arc melts wire faster than it arrives and climbs back to the tip during the weld.

Fix: Lower voltage, or raise wire speed.

3Wire feeding intermittently

Every momentary feed stall is a burnback.

Fix: Fix the feed first (above).

4Stick-out too short

Nozzle and tip held almost on the plate.

Fix: Keep 10-15 mm from tip to plate; the tip should sit 2-3 mm inside the nozzle on dip transfer.

5Worn or loose contact tip

Loose tip overheats and grabs the wire.

Fix: Tighten the tip with the spanner; replace when the bore is oval.

Erratic, spluttering or unstable arc

1Poor earth

The most common cause. A clamp on paint, scale or a rusty bench adds resistance and the arc flickers.

Fix: Clamp on bright metal as close to the weld as practical. Clean the clamp face. Check the earth cable lug at the machine is tight.

2Voltage and wire speed not matched

A sputtering, popping arc with big spatter means too little voltage; a long, hissing arc with the wire burning back means too much.

Fix: Tune voltage until the arc gives a steady crackle. On a synergic machine, use the matching program for the wire and gas.

3Contact tip worn

Current transfer to the wire becomes intermittent.

Fix: Replace the tip.

4Feed stuttering

See wire feed above.

Fix: Fix the feed.

5Mains voltage fluctuating or a phase missing

The arc follows the supply. One missing phase on a three-phase machine gives a weak, unstable arc and overheats the machine.

Fix: Check all three phases at the isolator and that the supply is within 10 % of rated. Use a cable size adequate for the current draw.

6Worn welding cables

A cable with broken strands inside the insulation heats up and drops voltage under load.

Fix: Feel for hot spots along the cables after a long weld; replace cables that heat.

7Wrong gas or no gas

Welding solid wire with no gas gives a violent, spattering arc and a black porous bead.

Fix: Check gas flow at the nozzle.

No gas, low gas, or porosity that follows the gas

  • Cylinder empty or valve closed: check the contents gauge; CO2 cylinders show pressure until almost empty, so weigh them or watch the flow.
  • Flow meter set too low: 12-18 L/min for CO2 and Ar-CO2 on 1.2 mm wire; 18-22 L/min outdoors or with a large nozzle.
  • Gas solenoid not opening: with the trigger pressed you should hear a click and feel gas at the nozzle. No click means a control cable or solenoid fault for our technical team.
  • Hose leaking or cracked at the back of the machine: soapy water on every joint.
  • Nozzle full of spatter, or the gas diffuser holes blocked: clean the nozzle every hour, replace the diffuser when the holes are bridged.
  • CO2 regulator freezing on a hot day of continuous welding: fit the heater (built in on most industrial machines) and check its fuse.
  • Draught: a pedestal fan or an open shutter blows the shield away. Screen the job.

See the porosity page for the full list once the gas path is proven.

Torch overheating, nozzle burning, tip melting

  • Running above the torch rating: a 250 A air-cooled torch cannot run 300 A at 60 % duty. Match the torch to the machine; above 350 A continuous use a water-cooled torch with a cooling unit.
  • Loose tip, loose nozzle or a damaged tip holder: poor contact heats the front end.
  • Spatter build-up in the nozzle: insulates the nozzle and holds heat.
  • Stick-out too short, nozzle in the arc.
  • Water-cooled torch with no coolant flow: check the coolant level, the pump and the flow switch. Never run a water-cooled torch dry.

Machine will not start, stops, or trips

SymptomLikely causeWhat to do
Power lamp off, fan off, no displayNo supply, phase loss, circuit breaker open, input fuseCheck the isolator and all three phases; reset the breaker once; if it trips again, call service
Protection or over-temperature lamp on, no outputDuty cycle exceeded, fan blocked, ambient over 40 degrees C, or mains over-voltageLeave the machine on so the fan cools it; it resets itself. Clear the air inlets. If it trips often, the machine is too small for the job
Fan runs, no arc, no wireTrigger or control cable fault, feeder plug looseCheck the control plug and the torch trigger continuity
Wire feeds but no arcEarth not connected, contact tip not conducting, output cable looseCheck earth clamp and the output socket lugs
Arc weak, cannot reach the set currentSupply voltage low, cable too thin or too long, one phase missingMeasure the supply under load; use the cable size the machine specifies
Breaker trips every time at switch-onInternal component faultDo not keep resetting; call service
Current varies by itselfMains swinging, interference from a nearby large loadMove to a separate supply line; an inverter with voltage compensation holds the arc better

Typical settings, 1.2 mm solid wire on mild steel

3 mm plate, fillet130-160 A, 19-21 V, dip transfer, 12-15 L/min
6 mm plate, fillet200-250 A, 24-27 V, 15-18 L/min
10 mm plate, fillet260-300 A, 28-31 V, 18-20 L/min
12 mm plate, multi-pass280-330 A, 30-34 V, 18-22 L/min
Contact tip to work10-15 mm below 200 A; 15-20 mm at 200-350 A
0.8 mm wire, 1-2 mm sheet50-90 A, 15-18 V
1.6 mm wire, heavy plate350-450 A, 32-38 V, water-cooled torch

Starting points for CO2 or Ar-CO2. Ar-CO2 runs 1-2 V lower for the same bead. Confirm on a test piece.

Daily and weekly care that prevents most of this

  • Daily: clean the nozzle, check the tip, check gas flow at the nozzle, check the earth clamp.
  • Daily: blow spatter off the feed rolls and inlet guide.
  • Weekly: blow out the liner with dry air from the torch end; check feed roll groove and pressure.
  • Weekly: check cable lugs and plugs for heat marks; tighten.
  • Monthly: blow dust out of the machine air inlets with the machine isolated; check the CO2 heater.
  • Every 3-6 months: new liner on a production torch.

Questions we get asked

Why does my MIG weld fine for 20 minutes then stop?

Thermal protection. The machine has reached its duty cycle at that current. Either the job needs a larger machine, or the air inlets are blocked with dust, or the ambient is very high. Check the fan and filters first.

Separate feeder or built-in?

A separate feeder lets the operator move 10-15 m from the power source with a short, light torch cable, so the wire path is short and feeding is reliable. For a fixed bench, a built-in feeder is simpler.

Can I run flux-cored wire on my CO2 MIG?

Yes. Fit knurled drive rolls, check the polarity the wire asks for, and use the gas it needs (gas-shielded FCAW) or no gas (self-shielded). Voltage runs 1-3 V higher than solid wire.

The wire sparks at the drive rolls

The wire is live and touching the feeder body, usually because the inlet guide insulation is worn or the torch connector is loose. Isolate and fix before use.

Fix it yourself: your Cruxweld machine

Lamps, fault codes and the checks an operator can do outside the cabinet, for the machines this page applies to.

Does the machine matter?

Most of these faults are in consumables that any machine uses: liner, contact tip, feed rolls, nozzle. The machine matters for arc stability (an inverter holds the set voltage through mains swings), for duty cycle (a machine that trips on thermal protection every 20 minutes is too small for the job) and for the feeder (a 4-roll feeder with a separate motor control feeds 1.6 mm and flux-cored wire without slipping).

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

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