Troubleshooting guide › Fix it yourself, by machine › Welding torch water coolers

Fix it yourself: Cruxweld AquaWeld 15 and 20 torch water coolers

A torch cooler is a tank, a pump and a radiator. It has no flow switch and no low-level cut-out on these models, so the operator is the protection: check the level and watch the return before striking an arc. A water-cooled torch run dry is destroyed in seconds, which is why this short page exists.

Covers: AquaWeld 15 (15 L) and AquaWeld 20 (20 L) water cooling units for MIG, TIG and plasma torches.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

Before you start: Unplug before opening hoses or touching the pump. Never run a water-cooled torch with the tank empty, hoses disconnected or no return flow.

Order of checks

  1. Level: at MAX with the unit level and off; top up with the same fluid before it reaches MIN.
  2. Flow path: hoses not kinked, trodden on or stretched; quick connectors latched (push until they click, pull to confirm); no unlatched coupler on the torch.
  3. Air path: radiator and grille clear; 300 mm clearance front and back; ambient within 40 degrees C.
  4. Fluid: clear, not cloudy; distilled or de-mineralised water (soft tap water acceptable), ethylene-glycol antifreeze below 10 degrees C; changed every six months.
  5. Supply voltage under load, then the machine itself by a technician.

Fault table

What you seeCheck yourselfIf it persists
Nothing at switch-onSupply, fuse or breaker, cable and plugSwitch: call
Motor hums, does not turnPump seized after standing idle: free it (below); low voltageStarting capacitor: call
Runs, then stopsThermal cut-out: blocked air path, high ambient, pump labouring on a kinked hoseCall if it stops with a clear air path
Breaker trips at each switch-onNothing outsideShort or water in the motor: call before restarting
Runs, air from the radiator, little or no flowPump lost prime after idling: free and bleed itCall
Flow falls during the shiftLevel dropped; hose kinked; torch passages furring up (flush or replace the torch)
Pump noisy or surgingAir drawn in: level low or a suction-side joint leaking
Good flow at the unit, torch still overheatsHoses too long; torch passages blocked; welding current above the torch rating
Coolant leaks from the pump shaftWorn water sealFit a new seal before the leak reaches the motor: call

Freeing a pump that has stood idle: unplug; tank at MAX; disconnect one hose at the INLET or OUTLET; apply clean, dry compressed air at low pressure to that connector for about 20 seconds; reconnect, switch on and check fluid returns to the tank; repeat once. Low pressure only; high pressure bursts hoses and torch passages. To prevent seizure, run the motor for a minute every fortnight when the unit is not in use.

Coolant and antifreeze

Lowest expected temperatureEthylene-glycol antifreeze by volume
Down to 0 degrees CNone needed
Down to -10 degrees CAbout 20 %
Down to -20 degrees CAbout 33 % (cooling capacity begins to fall)
Down to -30 degrees CAbout 45 % (maximum)

Never propylene-glycol, engine coolant with additives, oil or used water. Mix before adding; never above 50 %. Check the mix at the start of each winter; let a unit stored below freezing reach room temperature before filling and starting.

Source: the coolant, antifreeze, hose and daily-check guidance on this page follows the Cruxweld AquaWeld 15 / 20 documentation. The only approved fluid is distilled or de-mineralised water (soft, clean tap water accepted), with ethylene-glycol antifreeze in the proportions above when needed. Where the page says “low pressure” for clearing an airlock, no figure is given on purpose: if you are not sure what pressure your air line delivers, do not blow the circuit; send us a WhatsApp and our technical team will walk you through it.

Daily checks

  • Level at MAX, fluid clear.
  • Hoses along their length: cuts, kinks, hardening, weeping joints; connectors latched.
  • Radiator grille and fan clear.
  • Cable and plug undamaged; no leaks at tank or connectors.
  • Cooler on before the welder; pump, fan and return confirmed before the first arc.

Questions we get asked

Can I use tap water?

Soft, clean tap water is acceptable; hard water scales up the torch passages within months. Distilled or de-mineralised water is the safe choice, with ethylene-glycol antifreeze where it gets cold.

The hoses are crossed; does it matter?

The torch still cools, but any flow indication reads wrongly. Blue to the machine water IN, red to the machine water OUT.

Models covered on this page

Open your model for its specifications; the spares page lists the consumables for it.

Welding or cutting problem rather than a machine fault?

If the machine runs but the weld or cut is wrong, the cause is usually settings, consumables or the material. Start here:

Does the machine matter?

Switch the cooler on before the welding machine and confirm the pump runs, the fan turns and fluid returns to the tank before the first arc. Hoses no longer than 10 m, 8 mm bore, blue OUT to the machine water IN and red IN to the machine water OUT.

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

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