Troubleshooting guide › Specialised welding › Bandsaw blade welding

Bandsaw blade butt welding problems: blade breaks at the joint, brittle after annealing, stepped or twisted joint, thin after grinding

A bandsaw blade weld is a flash butt weld: the ends flash, the upset forges them together, the joint is annealed to take the hardness out, and the bead is ground flush. A joint that breaks on the saw failed at one of those four stages, and the break tells you which. This page covers carbon and bimetal blades from 6 to 75 mm wide on bench and trolley butt welders.

Covers: UltraFlex 520 (blades 7-52 mm, welding, pulse annealing, foot-switch grinder), CBS040 bench butt welder (6-37 mm), CBS175 trolley butt welder (37-75 mm), bandsaw blade welding machines.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

Before you start: Switch off and unplug before touching electrodes, jaws, tips or any connection. Everything here is outside the cabinet; the inside is for our technical team. Flash sparks fly: eye protection, no flammables near the jaws. Keep fingers clear of the clamps and the grinding wheel; check the wheel guard is tight.

The four stages and what each break tells you

Where it breaks / what it looks likeStage that failedFix
Clean break through the weld line, grey crystalline faceWelding: not enough flash (step too low) or upset too early or too weakRaise the welding step one; let the ends flash fully before a quick, firm upset
Break next to the weld, hard and glassy, cracks when flexedAnnealing: not annealed, or over-annealed to bright red and air-hardened againAnneal in short pulses to dark brown only; if it went bright red, cool fully and re-anneal
Joint stepped, teeth out of pitch, blade runs off the wheelsAlignment: ends not square, blade slipped in the jaws, worn jawsCut ends square to the back; align against the stop with no overlap; tighten both clamps; replace grooved jaws
Joint thinner than the blade, breaks after a few hoursGrinding: bead ground below blade thickness, or blade blued by grinding heatGrind only to blade thickness with light pressure, keep the blade moving, do not touch the teeth
Holes or burnt ends at the weldWelding step too high or upset too slowLower the step; upset quickly
Burn marks on the blade at the jawsDirty jaws or blade, loose clampsClean jaws and blade; tighten clamps

Welding step by blade size (UltraFlex 520)

Blade widthBlade thicknessWelding step
7-13 mm0.4-0.65 mm1-2
13-20 mm0.6-0.9 mm2-3
20-27 mm0.9-1.0 mm3-4
27-41 mm0.9-1.3 mm4-5
41-52 mm1.3-1.6 mm5-6

Starting values; make a trial weld on an offcut of the same blade. Raise the step if the ends do not flash enough or the joint is weak; lower it if the ends burn away or holes form. The right step also moves with supply voltage and blade material, so bimetal and carbon blades of the same size may need different steps: trial-weld each type.

The procedure that gives a joint that lasts

  1. Cut both ends square (90 degrees to the back) keeping the tooth pitch continuous across the joint; deburr; remove paint, oil and rust from the ends and the clamped areas.
  2. Teeth towards you, back against the stop; ends meet in the middle of the gap, straight, no overlap; tighten both clamps.
  3. Hold the upset lever with the ends just touching; press WELD and let the ends flash; when they reach temperature move the lever quickly and firmly; the limit switch cuts the current; wait a few seconds before releasing.
  4. Release, move the clamps about 25 mm apart so the weld sits midway, retighten; press ANNEAL in short pulses until the joint is dark brown (about 580-680 degrees C); cherry red is too hot; cool in air, never quench.
  5. Grind the bead on both faces and the back to blade thickness with light pressure, blade moving; never grind the teeth.
  6. Inspect: straight, in line, same thickness, no cracks; flex gently; tooth pitch continuous.

Machine faults

What you seeCheck yourselfIf it persists
No power lampSupply; isolator; fuseCall
No flash when WELD is pressedEnds touching; jaws and ends clean; upset lever returned so the limit switch is not actuatedLimit switch or contactor: call
Joint turns bright red during annealingButton held too long; use short pulsesNothing: technique
Grinder does not runFoot switch and cableMotor: call
Transformer overheatsDuty cycle; ventilation openings clearCall if hot at low duty
Higher step needed over time for the same bladeJaws and conductive blocks dirty or worn; secondary connections looseClean, replace jaws, tighten

Daily and periodic care

  • After every weld: flash and splashes off the jaws, clamps and table; jaws clean; clamp handles and upset lever free.
  • Weekly: oil the slide guide and clamp screws (no oil on the jaws); grinding wheel wear, cracks and guard; test the limit switch.
  • Monthly: blow out dust with dry low-pressure air; electrical, transformer and secondary connections tight and not overheating; supply cable, earth and foot switch cable.
  • Replace jaws when grooved or when they no longer hold the blade straight.

Questions we get asked

Why does the joint break on the saw after it passed a bend test?

Usually grinding: the joint was ground thinner than the blade, or blued by grinding heat, so it fatigues on the wheels. Grind to thickness only, cool, and check the joint with a micrometer against the blade.

Bimetal blades keep breaking at the weld

Bimetal backs are alloy steel and need a correct anneal more than carbon blades do; a joint annealed too hot or quenched will crack. Trial-weld, anneal in short pulses to dark brown, and let it cool in air.

Models covered on this page

Open your model for its specifications; the spares page lists the consumables for it.

Welding or cutting problem rather than a machine fault?

If the machine runs but the weld or cut is wrong, the cause is usually settings, consumables or the material. Start here:

Does the machine matter?

The welder gives a repeatable step (current), a spring upset and a pulse annealing circuit; the operator gives square ends, clean jaws and the right annealing colour. A machine that flashes but gives weak joints at every step with clean jaws needs its contactor and secondary connections checked.

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

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