Troubleshooting guide › Specialised welding › Battery tab welding

Battery tab welding problems: nickel strip not sticking, burnt strip but weak bond, positive vs negative terminal, pure nickel vs plated steel

A battery tab weld is two tiny spots made in a few milliseconds through a pre-pulse and a main pulse. The cell casing is thin steel, the strip is nickel, and the weld must hold without heating the cell. Almost every problem is one of four: the strip material, the tip condition, the pressure, or the current. This page is for pedal and pneumatic dual-pulse tab welders used on 18650, 21700 and prismatic cells.

Covers: CBS10M pedal and CBS10P pneumatic dual-pulse battery tab welders, 5 kVA pedal battery spot welders, hand-operated and pneumatic tab welding systems; pure nickel and nickel-alloy strip 0.05-0.3 mm.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

Before you start: Switch off and unplug before touching electrodes, jaws, tips or any connection. Everything here is outside the cabinet; the inside is for our technical team. Keep cells away from the electrodes and loose strip except at the moment of welding; a shorted cell can catch fire. Keep a Class D or CO2 extinguisher at the bench. Persons with pacemakers must not operate or stand next to the machine.

What a good tab weld looks like

  • Two small bright spots, no blue or black discolouration, no hole, no sparks during the weld.
  • Peel test: pulling the strip off by hand should tear the strip around the spots, leaving nickel on the cell. If the strip lifts clean off the cell, the weld is weak.
  • Peel-test a sample at the start of every shift and after dressing or replacing tips or changing strip.

Faults, most likely first, and the fix for each

1Strip does not stick, lifts off clean

Current too low; tips dirty, pitted or not flat; pressure too low so the pre-pulse cannot clean the contact; strip oily or oxidised; tip gap wrong for the cell.

Fix: Raise current in steps of 3-5 and re-test; file both tip faces flat and smooth; set pressure equal on both electrodes (about 1-2 kgf for 0.1 mm strip); wipe strip with alcohol; gap 2-4 mm as the pattern needs.

2Sparks, blown holes, burnt strip, even a burnt casing

Current too high for the strip; pressure too low; foreign matter on the tip face; strip is not nickel (plated steel or steel strip).

Fix: Lower current; raise pressure; file the tips; use pure nickel or nickel alloy strip, and for plated steel reduce current and expect a weaker, less consistent weld.

3Strip burns but the bond is still weak

Heat is going into the strip surface, not into the joint: tips too sharp or too small, pressure too low, current too high with too short a contact, strip surface dirty.

Fix: Dress the tips to a flat 3 mm face; raise pressure before touching current; clean the strip; two spot pairs per tab on thick strip rather than one hot pair.

4Welds on the negative terminal, not on the positive

The positive cap is a thicker, domed, often harder steel part with a small flat; the negative is thin flat steel. Same settings give a cold weld on the positive.

Fix: Weld the positive at a higher current (typically 5-15 % more) with the tips on the flat centre of the cap, tips level so both spots sit on the flat; never weld on the crimp or the vent ring; keep the pulse short.

5Pure nickel works, nickel-plated steel does not

Plated steel has higher resistance and a plating that burns off; it needs less current and more pressure, and it never peels like pure nickel.

Fix: For plated steel: lower current, higher pressure, flat tips; accept a lower peel strength or switch to pure nickel for packs that carry high current.

6Good welds then bad, randomly

Tip not tightened; a loose joint anywhere in the welding circuit; control board to thyristor connection loose; mains interference making the pilot lamp flicker.

Fix: Tighten tips and secondary connections; dress tips and reset the height; use a separate, well-earthed supply; power-cycle the machine.

7Tips stick to the strip or leave black marks

Tips dirty or oxidised; current too high; pressure too low.

Fix: File the tip faces; lower current; raise pressure.

8Result changes after the tip gap or strip width changes

Current path changed; the shunt through the strip between the two tips depends on gap and width.

Fix: Re-set and re-test after any gap or strip change; wider gap needs a little more current.

Starting values, pure nickel strip (CBS10M / CBS10P)

StripCurrent settingPressureTip gapExpected result
0.05 mm20-300.5-1 kgf2 mmTwo small bright spots, no discolouration
0.10 mm35-451-2 kgf2-3 mmStrip tears around the spot when peeled
0.15 mm45-602-3 kgf3 mmFirm weld; slight grey ring acceptable
0.20-0.30 mm60-853-4 kgf3-4 mmTwo spot pairs per tab; check for burn-through

Current is a 00-99 setting on these machines (keep it below about 60 for normal work); weld time is calculated by the control from the current. The numbers are for Cruxweld dual-pulse machines and do not transfer to other brands. Change one thing at a time, in steps of 3-5, and peel-test.

Machine faults

What you seeCheck yourselfIf it persists
No power indicationSupply; fuse (same rating only)Call
Pilot lamp steady instead of flashingNormal stand-by is a continuous flash; power-cycleControl board not seated: call
Power on, no sparkPedal stroke too short (adjust and raise pressure); current too low; tip too far from the battery (3-4 mm); pilot lamp flickering (interference: separate earthed supply)Welding switch wiring or photoelectric switch: call
Pneumatic (CBS10P): no stroke or weak strokeAir pressure; FRL filter drained; foot switchValve or cylinder: call
Unstable weldsTips tight; secondary connections tightBoard to thyristor connection: call

Daily and periodic care

  • Daily: dress the tips flat (about 3 mm face), keep about 20 mm of tip below the holder; peel test at shift start.
  • Weekly: bench and electrode area clear of nickel offcuts and dust; blow out the head with dry air.
  • Monthly: electrode holders, secondary copper connections and pull-rod lock nut tight; pedal pivot lightly oiled.
  • Replace tips when they can no longer be filed to a flat face.
  • Yearly: electrical inspection by a qualified technician.

Questions we get asked

Pedal, hand or pneumatic: which should I buy?

Hand-held for repair and small batches; pedal (CBS10M) for a bench operator building packs with consistent pressure set by the springs; pneumatic (CBS10P) for production, where the force is the same for every weld regardless of the operator and the cycle is faster.

Can I weld copper or aluminium tabs?

Not on these machines. Copper and aluminium need far higher current and different tips; the result is sparks and no bond. Use nickel strip, or nickel-plated copper designed for resistance welding, and test it first.

Welding or cutting problem rather than a machine fault?

If the machine runs but the weld or cut is wrong, the cause is usually settings, consumables or the material. Start here:

Does the machine matter?

These machines are built for nickel and nickel-alloy strip on cell casings; they are not for copper, aluminium or steel sheet above 0.3 mm. The dual-pulse control (pre-pulse to clean, main pulse to weld) and independent pressure on each electrode are what make the result repeatable; the pneumatic CBS10P adds a constant, operator-independent force.

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

45+ years of welding expertise · GeM Registered OEM Manufacturer · Supported Worldwide

WhatsApp chat