Troubleshooting guide › Specialised welding › Wire and rod butt welding

Wire and rod butt welding problems: joint breaks on drawing, offset ends, heavy burr, dry powdery weld, jaw marks

A wire butt weld is an upset weld: the ends are clamped, current heats them to forging temperature and the spring pushes them together, leaving a small burr. In a wire drawing shop the joint must survive the next die, so the weld, the alignment and the anneal all matter. This page is for mild steel, carbon steel, stainless, copper and aluminium wire and rod from 0.4 to 8 mm, and for upset welders on larger rod.

Covers: FLEXIWELD 6K and 8K wire butt welders (2-8 mm), CRB3K micro wire butt welder (0.4-3 mm), rod butt welders, pneumatic rod butt welders, upset butt welders.

Reviewed by the Cruxweld technical team, October 2026. Settings are starting points to confirm on a test piece; acceptance is decided by the code or drawing the job is built to. Checks marked “call” are for our technical team.

Before you start: Switch off and unplug before touching electrodes, jaws, tips or any connection. Everything here is outside the cabinet; the inside is for our technical team. Keep fingers clear of the jaws when the pedals are released: the spring closes them.

Faults, most likely first, and the fix for each

1Joint breaks on drawing or on bending

Carbon or hard-drawn wire not annealed after welding; current too low or pressure too high (dry weld); ends not square so only part of the section fused; joint not deburred so the die catches the burr.

Fix: Anneal carbon steel and hard-drawn material every time (dull red for steel, moderate heat for longer rather than hot and short); set current and pressure by trial; cut ends square; deburr with pliers or a file.

2Dry, powdery weld face

Too much spring pressure or too little current: the ends were pushed together before they were hot.

Fix: Reduce pressure one notch or raise the current step one.

3Heavy, thick burr

Spacing too large; pressure too high; ends cut at an angle so extra metal is squeezed out.

Fix: Reduce spacing (square-cut ends allow the smallest spacing); reduce pressure; cut square.

4Ends burn off or holes form

Current too high; pressure too low; ends dirty.

Fix: Lower the current step; raise pressure; clean the ends.

5Ends offset, joint not in line

Wrong V-groove for the diameter; worn or dirty jaws; wire bent near the end; wires not meeting midway.

Fix: Use the groove for the size; replace worn jaws; straighten the wire; set the ends to meet in the middle.

6Jaw marks, wire slips in the jaws

Jaws worn, dirty or oily; wrong groove; wire oxidised or coated.

Fix: Clean the jaws with fine emery, replace when worn, no oil on the gripping faces; clean the wire.

7Higher current step needed over time

Corroded contact between the copper jaws and the aluminium platens, or between the transformer lead and the moving platen.

Fix: Remove the jaws, clean the contact faces with fine emery, level with a flat file if needed, thin film of petroleum jelly, screws tight.

8No current when the button is pressed

Ends not touching; dirty ends or electrodes; spacing lever not in the weld position; thermal protection tripped.

Fix: Clamp so the ends touch; clean; lever fully left; let the machine cool.

9Aluminium or copper will not weld

Ends not square and clean (aluminium must be cut square); spacing too large; settings copied from steel.

Fix: Square, clean ends; smaller spacing for aluminium; confirm settings by trial on copper (2-5 mm) and aluminium (3-6 mm).

Settings by material (FLEXIWELD class)

MaterialDiameter rangeNotes
Mild and stainless steel2-8 mmStandard pressure barrel and lever settings for the size; low steps for thin wire, high for thick
Carbon and alloy steel2-8 mmLower pressure, higher current; anneal after welding
Aluminium3-6 mmSquare ends; smaller spacing
Copper2-5 mmClean ends; confirm by trial

Six current steps covering 50-100 %. A smooth weld face shows the settings are right; a dry powdery face shows too much pressure or too little current.

  1. Cut straight, burr-free ends at right angles; remove oil, rust and dirt.
  2. Set the current step for the diameter; set the pressure barrel so the wire size aligns with the notch; set the spacing lever to the figure for the diameter.
  3. Open the electrodes with the pedals, place the ends in the V-groove meeting midway, release the pedals; push the spacing lever fully left.
  4. Press and hold the button; the electrodes close and the current cuts off automatically at temperature; release the button only then.
  5. Open the clamps (for wire over about 4 mm open the right die first, move the lever right, then both pedals); deburr.
  6. Anneal where needed: lever right, weld midway in the annealing jaws, button until dull red for steel (pulse for longer low-temperature anneals), cool in air, trim and brush.

Care

  • Keep wire pieces and burrs out of the slide gaps; oil the working parts lightly with thin oil.
  • Jaws: clean with fine emery, level with a flat file, petroleum jelly on the contact faces, screws tight; replace when worn.
  • Annealing electrodes treated the same way.
  • Clean the contact between the transformer secondary lead and the moving platen at long intervals.
  • Earth, plug, socket and fuse sound; indicator lamp lights on connection.

Questions we get asked

Can I join two different diameters or materials?

Small differences in diameter are possible by cutting the larger wire to a short taper so the sections match at the joint; different materials (steel to copper, say) do not butt-weld reliably and the joint will not survive drawing. Ask us with the sizes and materials before planning it.

Why does the joint survive the first die but break in the second?

The joint was not annealed, or was annealed too hot and re-hardened. A properly annealed joint is slightly softer than the wire and draws through every die.

Welding or cutting problem rather than a machine fault?

If the machine runs but the weld or cut is wrong, the cause is usually settings, consumables or the material. Start here:

Does the machine matter?

The machine provides the current steps, a spring upset set by the pressure barrel and annealing jaws; the result depends on square, clean ends and the right spacing. A machine that needs a higher step over time for the same wire has dirty or corroded contacts between the copper jaws and the platens.

Still stuck?

Send a photo of the weld or cut, your machine model, consumable and plate thickness. Our technical team replies on WhatsApp with the likely causes and the next checks to make.

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